An American in Cuba

Marianna, dancer, Havana, CubaMarianna spoke no English, and my ten words of Spanish were insufficient for a conversation. Through a translator we conversed about the modern dance she and her troupe had just performed. Marianna was one of many “people-to-people” interactions we had during my recent 10-day Road Scholar visit to Cuba.

Americans are restricted from trade with Cuba, but we are allowed to participate in educational trips where we can learn about the culture and arts of the nation. This trip took us first to Camaguey, the third largest city in Cuba and about 350 miles east of Havana. Growth without planning has left the city a disorienting mesh of winding alleys and small streets filled with horse carts, classic cars, bicycles, and motorcycles. Public transportation is dominated by pedicabs, tricycle taxis better suited to the narrow lanes.

As we zigzagged our way west over several days we stopped in a variety of old towns, including Sancti Spiritus, Trinidad, Cienfuegos, and Remedios, before finally landing in Havana. Keeping with our educational interactions, our group of mostly Americans met with many artists, dancers, and singers. The ballet company in Camaguey performed a selection of their best dances, as did Marianna’s modern dance company in Havana. In Cienfuegos we were treated to an inspiring selection of songs by the local chorus. In all the stops we experienced local artists who work in paint, sculpture, leather, and discarded old doors and windows. Through translators we heard directly from the artisans about their work.

In Havana we visited the farm Ernest Hemingway lived at for 30 years, leaving after the Castro revolution in 1959. His book collection dominates every room, including the bathroom, where the walls still show his obsessive cataloguing of daily weight. We also visited the Fine Arts Museum, walked the melacon sea wall, rode in classic American cars, and learned the history of Afro-Cuban music and US-Cuban relations.

Marianna and her fellow dancers hugged each of us as we parted, another wonderful memory for an American in Cuba.

I’ll have much more on our Cuban experiences in following posts as I make my way through over 2000 photos. Stay tuned.

[NOTE: Ru has written a beautiful recap of the trip. Read it here!]

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

 

Revisiting Hanoi…and More

Mary Malone, Dublin, IrelandTo say that my first real travel experience outside the United States (other than Bermuda as a college student) was a culture shock would be to make the understatement of the century. After growing up in a small New England town where “traveling vacations” meant loading up the station wagon and driving a few hours away, my first big travel trip was to Hanoi. As in Vietnam.

The flight from Washington DC to New York to Anchorage to Taipei to Hanoi took something like 36 hours. But it was worth it. I’ve written about the experience before when I first started this page in 2012.

Here’s Part 1 that I called “Hanoi on the Half Shell.”

And here’s Part 2, “A Cup of Tea and a Conversation I Didn’t Understand.”

Take a moment to read them as they are fascinating stuff (if I do say so myself).

Since that first trip about 19 years ago I’ve traveled to something over 60 foreign countries, depending on how you count. Just in the last year and a half I’ve been in several places around the United States, a half dozen countries in Europe, five or six Asian countries, Australia, New Zealand, and probably some more I’ve lost track of. I have upcoming trips to a foreign nation I’ll reveal later and a long road trip into the Land of Lincoln.

As Mark Twain has been credited as saying, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” I agree. As I experience new people in new places I find the differences between us exhilarating, and the similarities uncanny. I highly encourage all Americans to get overseas, even if it’s only to familiar places (London) or iconic places (Paris, Rome). If you can, go some place exotic, even if it’s only exotic to you. The key is to get out of your hometown, your home nation, your home mindset. As the commercial goes, Just Do It!

I’m diligently working through thousands of photos (digital is both a godsend and a curse), so look for some great scenery coming again shortly. For now, click on “Travel” above or type in your favorite location in the search box. And have fun exploring.

And if you haven’t already, take a close look at the photo. Not every day you see a donkey head reading the Racing Times.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

Reconstructing Bermuda, Part Deux

David at Sandy HookA while back I wrote a post called Reconstructing Bermuda in which I reminisced about my college semester on that Atlantic Ocean island. In an attempt to sound scholarly, here is Part Deux.

Many years ago I lived in Bermuda for a college semester. There were 15 of us learning how to be marine biologists while living at the Bermuda Biological Station for Research. For two months we studied, we dived, we snorkeled, we spent hours bent over equipment in the laboratory searching for microscopic parasites. Fun was had by all.

That’s how I began the previous post and it’s fitting to use it to set the stage. I’ve written more on trials and travails of that semester on my memoir/creative blog, Hot White Snow. Here are some additional highlights (click on the titles or “Read more” for the full article):

Researching Bermuda

My independent research project for the semester focused on the epibiota of the submerged roots of red mangroves in Walsingham Pond. Red mangroves (Rhizophora mangle) are best known for their aerial prop roots, which help suspend the main trunk and leaves of the tree above the water. Epibiota are those animals and plants that attach themselves to the roots, either permanently or temporarily. In my survey I identified thirty-four different species of attached flora (plants) and fauna (animals). For contrast I also examined the nearby bay, which led to the following encounter with an inquisitive barracuda. [Read more]

The Barracuda of Walsingham Bay, Bermuda

Each of us were required to do a field research project of our own design. Mine was to examine the epibiota on mangrove roots in Walsingham Pond, with a comparison site in Walsingham Bay. I gathered data by snorkeling around both locations and writing my findings on waterproof tablets (the plasticized paper kind, long before iPad-type tablets). A barracuda full of teeth and curiosity followed me around the Bay. It was unnerving, and yet at the same time exhilarating. [Read more]

Copycats in Bermuda

Picture 15 people walking into a local bar, all wearing bright purple t-shirts. Needless to say, we attracted a lot of attention, including from one very lonely sailor and a restroom encounter ending with “Are you all some kind of group?” And that was just the first night.  [Read more]

A Drop of Worthington E

Speaking of bars, our favorite, which we dubbed “The pub is a pub is a pub,” was the scene of one late night beer chugging contest featuring Worthington E on tap. Most of my companions assumed I was a lightweight drinker, but the Worthington E slid down the gullet so easily I found myself in the finals against one of the women in the group. Who won? [Read more] [And no, this was not the reason for the next story]

Bailey’s Bay Slide

Our main mode of transportation around the island was by small motor scooters called moped. While seemingly innocuous, they played central roles in several incidents, including one that makes my knee throb to this day. One day after a light rain we set out on a research expedition that turned out to be more eventful than we anticipated. This is why. [Read more]

The North Rock Song

North Rock sits an 8-mile boat ride from the lab. After a day of diving and snorkeling we kept ourselves entertained working on our tans and singing an old sea ballad. Officially “The Mermaid,” the fifteen of us turned the chanty into our “North Rock” anthem. [Read more]

I have many more fond memories of that time and have reconnected with a few of my fellow explorers in recent years, so expect to see more reminiscing in the future.

 

 

Lincoln: The Fire of Genius is available for purchase at all bookseller outlets. Limited signed copies are available here. The book is also listed on Goodreads, the database where I keep track of my reading. Click on the “Want to Read” button to put it on your reading list. If you read the book, please leave a review and/or rating.

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David J. Kent is President of the Lincoln Group of DC and the author of Lincoln: The Fire of Genius: How Abraham Lincoln’s Commitment to Science and Technology Helped Modernize America and Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America.

Looking for Ljubljana – Slovenia’s Triple Bridge Jewel

Triple bridge, Ljubljana, SloveniaSeveral years ago I took a road trip through central Europe. Starting in Bratislava, the route took us through Vienna, Munich, Fussen (home of the famed Neuschwanstein Castle), Munich, Salzburg, and Budapest. Rather than backtrack through Vienna, we decided on a whim to drive south to the capital city of Slovenia, Ljubljana, home of the triple bridge.

The route from Salzburg went through, over, and under the Austrian Alps. And by under, I mean through several long tunnels bored deep into the mountains, up to 8 kilometers at a time. The views were spectacular; the turn of phrase “clouds laying like cotton quilts in the beds between the ridges” popped into my mind as I drove.

Ljubljana (more or less pronounced, LOOB-Yana) was the kind of quaint old capital city I had come to expect in Europe. Most of the visitor activity was focused on a series of cobblestoned pedestrian streets, old town squares, and the ubiquitous castle high on the hill overlooking the city. While there were modern shops to keep tourists happy, my favorite section of the old town was the farmers market where the local shopkeeper and I communicated enough via hand-signals (to make up for my lack of Slovenian – a Slavic language with occasional Germanic hints) to order a local snack that to do this day I can’t identify. [But it was good]

Feeling energetic, we hiked up to the castle and scanned the city. Feeling less energetic, we took the funicular back to the ground and walked past the Dragon Bridge and on to the more famous tromostovje, the triple bridge. Originally a single stone bridge crossing the Ljubljanica River, two footbridges canted at a slight angle to the main span were added in 1932 to alleviate a traffic bottleneck. When I was there, part of the bridge was undergoing renovation and one of the side bridges was swamped with photo salesmen. Overall, however, the bridge and the city are a jewel for Slovenia.

There is always the danger of becoming jaded by the similarities present in European old towns – all have cobblestoned streets, central squares, and cathedrals with massive castles guarding on high – so I’m always happy to see the more unique street performers and artwork. Ljubljana have many of each. Check out the slideshow below.

While it was not on our originally planned route, and Ljubljana was a long side-trip, it was one that proves the point that you should always be flexible in your travel.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

The Sorrow and Science of Notre Dame de Paris

The artist in ParisYesterday the world watched in horror as the famous Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris blazed into the night. I’ve been to Paris a half a dozen times and on all but one trip (an in/out day train commute from Brussels), I made my pilgrimage to Our Lady, Notre Dame.

One of the marvels of Notre Dame and similar (but never equal) Gothic architecture are the ribbed vaulted ceilings and exterior flying buttresses. These counterbalance the weight of the roof, thus allowing greater height and more space for windows, most prominently the huge rose window, to bring light and color to the interior in the days before electric lamps. Since most of the parishioners at the time were illiterate, copious statuary and towering stained glass windows illustrated biblical stories for the masses.

As the fire burned we all wondered what could be saved. Early signs are that the main towers, walls, and buttresses survived and that the cathedral can be rebuilt, albeit without its centuries-old oak framing. It was that oak framing, as one report put it, “a forest of wooden latticework,” that fueled the fire. Let’s take a closer look.

Most of the framing that held the roof were old-growth trees cut down between 1160 and 1170 – a total of over 13,000 trees – each probably already several hundred years old when cut. For those who have seen Notre Dame, the roof covers a huge expanse, well over 300 feet long and nearly 50 feet wide at its widest, with a sharp pitch to give a peak over 30 feet high from the roof’s base. All this starting more than 100 feet from the cathedral floor. This expansive oak framing was necessary to hold up the heavy lead roof, which weighs in at over 210 tons.

I heard yesterday that as part of the current restoration work (which may have caused the fire) they may have removed several of the large statues from the roof of the cathedral. Thus by a quirk of fate, they are saved. It seems most of the exterior wall gargoyles survived the conflagration. Inside, some of the motive candles lit by current day parishioners and tourists were still gently burning as the wooden framework was being destroyed above.

It will be a while before the final assessment is complete, but early indications are that Notre Dame will be rebuilt with some degree of fealty to the original, although it is impossible to resurrect the centuries-old framework that was lost.

More photos of the interior oak framework can be found on the Notre Dame website. Click around for details on the other features of the cathedral. The text is in French (even on the “English” page) but the photos are worth a look even if you can’t read the language.

Ironically, as I write this I might have been in Paris. I had anticipated renting an apartment for the month of April in the “City of Lights,” but I wasn’t ready to begin researching the book I have in mind so put it off until next year. Although it will take many years to restore the church to any semblance of its former glory, I’ll be back to Paris again soon. As the mourning for Notre Dame so clearly demonstrates, Paris is a city of the world. If you haven’t been there, go. And while you’re there, pay homage to Our Lady, Notre-Dame.

[Photo Credits: Top by David J. Kent, 2008; Interiors from Notre Dame website]

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

Traveling Travails – It Isn’t All the Good Life

Queenstown, New ZealandIn over five years of science traveling I’ve experienced some fantastic locations, but it isn’t all the good life. Sometimes there are traveling travails. I’ve been injured traveling more times than I care to admit, and getting lost is not an uncommon occurrence. The following gives a hint of how sometimes even getting from one place to another can be a bit of a trial.

The scene: We’re part of a small group of six new friends.

The place: Starting in Cairns, Australia, with an ultimate destination of Queenstown, New Zealand.

Okay, that sounds easy enough, right? Except there is no direct flight, which means a day of flying and multiple airports in two countries. I anticipated a long day, but reality turned out to be even more complicated than I imagined. The first leg took us from Cairns to Sydney, where we were to connect with a plane to Auckland. From Auckland (on the north island of New Zealand) we connected again to Queenstown (on the south island).

Pickup at the hotel in Cairns was on time – at 3:40 a.m. Luckily there was no traffic but we cut it close, as in arriving at the gate five minutes before boarding time. The attendant at the check-in counter was efficient enough, though one wouldn’t call her the warmest personality. On boarding, the six of us were spread out in different parts of the plane. Three of us were in the very back and, unlike U.S. planes, they opened up the rear doors for us to enter and depart. Only a few rows from the tail, the three of us disembarked and made our way into the terminal. Given the short connection time, Ru and I immediately headed for the assigned transfer gate to catch our other plane. Our companion told us not to wait for him; he would hit the loo and then wait for the other members of our group. That would be the last we saw of him, or them, until the next day.

Now just two, we found the gate specified by the instructions given to us on check-in, which to our surprise meant loading into a bus that brought us to another terminal for the international flight. This took longer than we expected and dumped us outside a packed security area, which meant long lines going through passport control and baggage checks again, then a long walk to get to our actual departure gate. The gate itself required getting through a rugby scrum of people going downstairs to a series of gates, which meant being careful not to get carried along with the crowd heading to Shanghai instead of Auckland. Another passport check and boarding pass scan got us onto yet another bus to take us out to the plane, which as far as I can tell was not far from where we originally got off our plane from Cairns. As Ru and I walked up the gangway steps into the plane we desperately texted our companions to tell them to hurry. I even begged the head flight attendant not to close the door because they hadn’t arrived yet, even after a second shuttle bus came and went. He shut the door anyway and we were left with three empty seats staring at us from across the aisle, and a fourth between us.

Empty seats

The second connecting flight wasn’t much easier. Despite what the check-in attendant told me in Cairns (that we didn’t have to pick up our bags until Queenstown, which she repeated three times at my doubtful questioning), the flight attendant informed us we did, in fact, have to reclaim our luggage again in Auckland. Here we go again. Passport control, luggage claim, wait in line. The first line looked like the exit after a drive-in movie finished. After an anxious hour and a half, we passed through the “biosecurity screening” checkpoint and were sent out to a counter to re-check our bags. But wait, the woman in the “Drop Bags” area tells us we are now less than 60 minutes before the flight and there is no guarantee that they will get the bags on the next plane. Instead, she tells us, we must go outside the terminal, hike 15-20 minutes with our luggage to the completely separate domestic terminal to check our bags again. But hey, we had a helpful green line to follow down the sidewalk, across the streets (twice), and around the airport to get to the other entrance. Not surprisingly, we had to wait there for the attendant to re-check our luggage before we could walk down an increasingly long terminal, through yet another security check-in and x-ray line, then more walking to finally reach the gate where our plane was revving its engines.

Keep in mind we thought we had something like 3 hours of transfer time. We made it to the gate with only minutes to spare before boarding. But the view was amazing.

New Zealand

The empty seats next to us was a reminder that our travel mates were still somewhere in Sydney. But after our successful arrival in Queenstown we found the Super Shuttle waiting to take six – now two – of us to the hotel. When we arrived he tried to scam $26 each from us before I reminded him it was prepaid. It seems taxi drivers scamming customers is a global thing.

Eventually we found out that our four companions had been able to get a later flight from Sydney to Auckland to Queenstown that night, which was good because we were all scheduled for a tour early the next morning. They were, however, sans luggage, which didn’t arrive until the following night. That didn’t stop all of us from enjoying the next two days trailing in the steps of hobbits and cruising in the fjords of Milford Sound.

These weren’t the only complications on this particular trip, or on other trips I’ve taken. In fact, I’ve come to expect the unexpected when I travel. Sometimes it’s a missed flight or train, sometimes a lack of coordination with local accommodations, sometimes a gravel road where the map says “highway.” I even had one travel agent book my flight to Rome for the night before a flight from the U.S. to Brussels she booked in the same session. That cost me several hundred Euros and a lot of grief. But I made it. And so far I’ve survived, and enjoyed all my travel, despite the travails.

So…Where to next?

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

The Skull of Hammershus on Bornholm

Den Forhadte Borg. The Hated Castle. Hammershus is Scandinavia’s largest medieval fortress, situated on the northern tip of the Danish island of Bornholm in the Baltic Sea. And if that isn’t ominous enough, they have an eight foot skull embedded in the floor. The skull of Hammershus.

Skull of Hammershus

Hammershus dates back to early in the 13th Century. Initially a residence of the Archbishop of Lund (then part of Denmark), the fortress for the next 500 years served as a stronghold of the island’s various rulers. Repeated wars and rotating residents led to the castle being rebuilt and expanded on several occasions. Partially demolished late in the 18th Century, Hammershus now lays in ruins but remains an important historical site.

I visited only three months after the opening of a new visitor center that provides a panoramic view of the fortress. And that’s where the skull comes in. A human skull was found on the site during an archaeological excavation in the 1940s. Using new 3D scanners, a 2.5-meter replica of that skull was created. Ten tons of robot milled Styrofoam molds formed the base of the sculpture, with acrylic gypsum laminated to its surface. Final surface details were sculpted by hand and the surface was hand-painted to resemble the original as close as possible.

The effect is spectacular. Turning the corner into the visitor center we were all suddenly taken aback by this huge skull lying in front of us. But don’t get too cozy here; head for the viewing platform to the walls and towers of the Hammershus ruins. Plan for extra time and hike up the trail and around the fortress up close. Gaze over the cliffs to the brilliant waters of the Baltic Sea.

After Hammershus we headed for the town of Allinge and a lunch of traditional smoked herring and beer, then to Osterlars for the biggest round church in Denmark. I’ll have more on these other sites on Bornholm later. For now, I’m still thinking about the Skull of Hammershus.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

Rice and Coconuts Drive the Philippines

Water Buffalo, Boracay, PhilippinesThe Philippines consists of 7,641 islands, although about 500 of them disappear at high tide. While the nation has growing industrial and service industries, about 30% of the labor force remains in agriculture, with rice as its biggest commodity.

I’ve always had a special affinity for rice. One of my first assignments as an environmental consultant was to tour the southern US to locate collaborators for a study for a new rice pesticide. I roamed the fields of Louisiana, Arkansas, Mississippi, and Texas. Years later I found myself in southeast Asia noting the prevalence of rice (and noodles) in the diet.

During my recent trip to the Philippines I had several occasions to get a better understanding how important rice is the to the local diet and way of life. Here’s just one example. I visited the Motag Living Museum on the northwestern tip of Panay Island, a short speedboat ride from the tourist island of Boracay. The museum consists of a series of traditional huts and workspaces. Women show how traditional crafts – baskets, toys, clothes, tools – are made, while both men and women highlight the methods of ploughing, harrowing, planting, threshing, pounding, and then cooking, rice.

Rice is a basic source of starch, much like pasta and potatoes in Europe and the United States, but I was surprised to learn that they also make the equivalent of popcorn (pop-rice?) and hard grain rice snacks. Rice fibers can also be used as toilet paper. I passed on the invitation to roll up my pants and plant new rice fronds in the muddy rice field, but jumped at the chance to ride a water buffalo (called a carabao in the Philippines) around the same mud plot. I also used a bamboo pole as a bucket to lift water from a well, fill another bamboo pole as a carrier, and tote the water to an area for washing and showering.

Rice paddies, Boracay, PhilippinesMy science education also didn’t stop with rice. Motag also showed us how to hack coconuts out of their outer husk using a sharp stick, then use another sharp stick to break up the coconut meat into flakes. We also got to taste coconut water and coconut milk. Coconut also played a role (no pun intended) as “paper” at the local toilet hole. Mixing coconut flakes with water makes a handy shampoo, while a coconut and leaves blend works great as a natural soap. These seemed to work better than the leaves sometimes used at the hole and sometimes to sandpaper the bark off trees (for which it worked way too well). Later I would enjoy the traditional coconut pie and 80-proof coconut wine/liquor.

I finished up my visit with a cup of hot lemongrass and ginger tea, followed by leaf-wrapped sticky rice.

The short local minibus ride back to the boat squeezed passed the row of moto-tricycles waiting for their charges as the local high school emptied out its students. Along the way back to the pier we saw acres and acres of rice fields squeezed between the shoreline and mountains. Much of the Philippines was severely damaged by Super Typhoon Haiyan (called Yolanda in the Philippines) in 2013. A 7.1 level earthquake hit the area a month prior to the typhoon. Luckily, the Philippines gets all its energy from geothermal, wind, solar, and hydroelectric, so they were able to recover fairly well.

Suddenly I feel an urge to eat some pop-rice. Perhaps this is an unexplored market in the west.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

How to Make Coffee in Costa Rica

Coffee Plantation Costa RicaDuring a recent visit to Costa Rica I learned how to make coffee. From scratch, like from the beans. I toured the Doka Estate Coffee Plantation in Alajuela Province, northwest of San Jose, and even got to rake some of the dried coffee beans. My big discovery is that making coffee is a lot more complicated than you might think, and in Costa Rica, done using natural renewable energy.

Coffee as a drink originated in Ethiopia but is now produced in over 70 countries of the world. Outside of sugar cane, coffee is their biggest product (that is, not counting ecotourism, which is now the country’s primary economic driver). Costa Ricans, who call themselves Ticos, always have a tin cup handy for coffee because they are light, don’t break, and reusable.

Coffee plants need to grow for four years before the first harvest. The berries are green at first, then turn red as they ripen. Since berries on any given plant can ripen at different times, it takes four months of repeated visits for workers to hand pick the red berries from each individual plant. Workers, many of whom are migrants from other countries (e.g., neighboring Nicaragua), get about $2 per 28-pound basket of berries, which makes only 7 pounds of beans once husked. It takes multiple steps to get to the “golden beans” that are ground to make coffee.

The first step is to separate the berries by density, which is done in the wet mill, essentially a water bath. Low quality berries float while high quality ones sink to the bottom. The next step is to separate by size (small, medium, large) through various rotating grids. By this time the beans are extracted from the berries and fermented for 36 hours in big vats. Then they are off to the spread out in the sun to dry for five days. That’s where I got a chance to learn a new trade – raking the beans to turn them over in the sun.

Even more fascinating was how they make decaffeinated coffee. Since Ticos don’t drink a lot of decaffeinated coffee (or soda), they ship beans off to a company in Germany who happily extracts the caffeine in hot water for free. Why free? Because they can then use the caffeine to put in sodas and other caffeinated products. The decaffeinated beans are then shipped no charge back to Costa Rica for the limited use they get, mostly by tourists staying in hotels.

I also learned that the different types of coffee (French roast, Breakfast, Espresso, etc.) are created simply by varying the time beans are roasted. There is also the phenomenon where a berry, which normally contains two same-sized beans, produces one round bean and one tiny flat bean. The round one, called a peaberry, tends to absorb flavor that didn’t go to the runt bean, which makes the peaberry much sweeter. You’ll see these sold separately.

At the end of the tour I was able to try four different kinds of premium coffee, which to be honest was a bit of a waste on me given I don’t actually drink coffee. Still, the difference between the four was eminently evident to my palate. Much more to my liking was the three kinds of chocolate covered coffee beans. The sweet taste of the white, milk, and dark chocolate was deliciously balanced by the bitterness of the underlying bean.

The experience of visiting the coffee plantation is one not to be missed, whether you drink coffee or not. My thanks to the guides at Doka Estates Plantation for teaching me the science of making coffee.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

Four Monkeys in Costa Rica

There are four species of monkeys in Costa Rica. This contrasts with no monkeys in Australia, the subject of a previous post. I recently got to see all four species of Costa Rican monkeys.

They are, in no apparent order, the Central American squirrel monkey (Saimiri oerstedii), the Panamanian white-faced capuchin (Cebus imitator), the Mantled howler (Alouatta palliata), and Geoffroy’s spider monkey (Ateles geoffroyi).

The capuchins and howlers have fairly stable populations while the squirrel and spider monkeys are listed as vulnerable and endangered, respectively. Getting photos of the spider monkey turned out to be impossible even though they are the biggest of the four species. We saw (and heard!) plenty of howler monkeys, but they were generally fairly elusive and stayed up in the high trees. The capuchins, in contrast, seemed to welcome human contact, coming right up to the edge of the river we were on to feast on the fruits at the end of branches. We only saw squirrel monkeys once, a dozen or so filling a tree not far from the ground we were hiking.

The trip to Costa Rica was one of the most biodiverse travel experiences I’ve ever had. Starting in San Jose and environs, we went all the way north to the Nicaragua border (even passing slightly over the border on the Rio Frio). Then it was the hanging bridges near the Arenal Volcano and out to the west for the Pacific coast. Eventually we went down to the south for bird and crocodile watching on the Tarcoles River. Our last day was in the famous Manuel Antonio National Park. Around the country we saw an amazing number of bird species, plus agouti, coatimundi, igaunas, sloths (both two-toed and three-toed) and much, much more.

Rarely do we take packaged tours, but this one with Caravan Tours was outstanding. Many thanks to our Tour Dictator (um, Director) Cinthia and bus driver Jaime for a fantastic week taking us around Costa Rica. Pura Vida!

I’ll have plenty more about Costa Rica coming up so stay tuned!

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

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