Thar Be Bears – Glacier National Park

I recently returned from a road trip beginning at Crater Lake, Oregon, traipsing up the coast, up the Columbia River Gorge, and finally to Glacier National Park in Montana. And thar be bears on the trip.

Glacier National Park has lost most of its glaciers. Of the more than 100 present when it was made a park in 1910, only 26 remain as “active glaciers.” Climate change is hastening the demise. There is, however, still wildlife in the park (though that too has diminished). In particular are bighorn sheep (Ovis canadensis) and black bears (Ursus americanus).

Glacier National Park

We saw the first bears – a mother and two cubs – snoozing on a sandy riverbank along the Many Glacier road. Because of the ongoing fires in the center of the park, we had to drive all the way around from the western side along the southern edge and up the eastern side of the park. It was here that we determined the inadequacy of our binoculars and camera equipment. Luckily we found a delightful gentleman who let us gaze up close and person through his powerful spotting scope. This trio of bears were a bit distant from the road so my photos aren’t perfect, but you can see the coloration of one of the two cubs is more silver than that of the mother black bear and the other cub. Black bears can be all black, have some silver or brown markings, or even all brown (not to be confused with brown bears, which are a different species and include the subspecies we know as “grizzly bears; I know, it’s complicated).

Earlier, on the Going to the Sun road in the center of the park we could make it as far as Logan Pass, after which the road was closed almost all the way to the western gate. Logan Pass is home to the highest point in the park and location of the Continental Divide marker at 6,646 feet. But our attention was grabbed by movement on the hillside – bighorn sheep. The most obvious characteristic is the namesake big horns on males. The horns themselves can weigh up to 30, a full tenth of their 300 pound total weight. The ones we saw were the Rocky Mountain bighorn, a subspecies commonly found in the area. Two other subspecies – the Sierra Nevada bighorn and Desert bighorn are found further south and are currently endangered.

Glacier National Park

Back on Many Glacier road we stopped outside the entrance to a park hotel. Up on the hill we saw another mother black bear with her two cubs. These again showed the light silvery touches to the shoulders and rump. They pretty much ignored us and other bear gawkers as they filled their bellies with grass and bushes. We think of bears as being carnivores, but most of their diet is vegetation. In September they are likely searching for hazelnuts, acorns, pine nuts, or berries such as huckleberries.

We didn’t see many other animals on the trip. No grizzly bears, no lynx, not even any mountain goats (the park’s symbol), moose, coyotes, or deer. We didn’t see any, but we clearly smelled skunk, another park regular. But we were satisfied to see the large group of bighorn sheep and two sets of bear trios. At least until the next time.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

Oregon Adds Two New Aquariums to My Life List

Seaside AquariumA recent road trip along the coast of Oregon added two new aquariums to my life list, now sitting at 52 aquariums worldwide. The two new ones couldn’t be any more different, but each was spectacular in its own way.

Oregon Coast Aquarium, Newport, OR

Newport is considered a small city, although it has a population approximately that of my home town, something over 10,000 people. Sitting on the coastline near the Hatfield Marine Science Center, this is the perfect spot for the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Acreage-wise, the aquarium is fairly equally split between indoor and outdoor exhibits.

Indoors are a series of buildings or rooms displaying different types of coastal ecosystems, e.g., sandy and rocky shores and coastal waters. There is also a large hall called “Big Bites” with information on larger fish. All this is after walking through a hall called “Secrets of the Shipwrecks” that takes advantage of the habitats created by offshore wrecks from previous ages. All of this is well done and amply communicated with signs and displays.

Outside are more “natural” habitats for sea otters, sea lions and harbor seals, an octopus cave, and seabird aviary. The otter feeding show was well done and easy to observe, but the sea lion area was too cramped and too far away to even glimpse the animals, which meant hoards of people jostling to try to see anything and completely ignoring the curator explanations. Likewise, the octopus loved is cave so much he couldn’t be seen by anyone no matter how much the tried. There is no “Central Tank,” but from the outside you also go into another building with three short walk-through viewing tubes where you could see fish from “Halibut Flats,” the “Open Sea,” and “Orford Reef.” Exiting this area (through an event room and small store) was a very short nature trail where you could look out over the Yaquina Bay Estuary, the harbor bridge, and the edge of the Hatfield Marine Lab, with which the aquarium has a research relationship.

Overall it was a nice aquarium with a lot to offer.

Seaside Aquarium, Seaside, OR

The contrast with the Seaside Aquarium is stark. Sitting at the end of a dead-end road fronting onto a wide resort beach, the Aquarium is marked by a huge sign that offers no doubt about where you are: AQUARIUM. It’s one of the oldest aquariums on the west coast, founded in 1937, and privately owned. Descendants of the original founders still run the aquarium.

For most, the biggest attraction is the tank in the front of the building holding 8-10 seals. People can opt to pay an extra $2 (over the $8 admission fee) for a dish of small fish to feed to the seals. The seals are well versed in how to manipulate the people crowded into the narrow “splash area,” offering up a variety of barks, side slaps, and often rather obnoxiously, wild splashing onto the patrons, all in begging for the next fish to be tossed over the fence. In one way this was very entertaining and the main draw; in another, it was depressing to see so many seals within a small tank begging for food.

To me the best part of the aquarium was the part most visitors probably don’t spend enough time in. Behind the seal tank is one big room edged with tanks set into the wall. All of the fish seem to be Pacific coastal fish or from deeper waters. There is some repetition, e.g., there were wolf eels in at least four different tanks (for the record, wolf eels are not actually true eels, which the signage duly explains). There were some unique fish like staghorn sculpin, and several octopuses (to make up for not finding the one in Newport). The room also contained a small “touch tank” area, a table with tiny sea slugs, kelp cucumbers, and other organisms displayed in bubble glassware so they could be easily seen, and some scientific displays. I was most impressed with these latter. The owners had clearly done significant research into their displays and put up ample low-tech signage explaining not only what was in the tanks, but key ecological and scientific facts about them.

I had low expectations of what Seaside Aquarium would be about. Not only have I seen some of the biggest aquariums in the world, but I had earlier that day had a local tell me the aquarium wasn’t much to see. So I was pleasantly surprised to find how much I liked it. It’s small, for sure, but with the little they have they do an exceptional job making it into an educational experience. And, of course, you get to be splashed in cramped quarters by obnoxiously entertaining seals.

Check out more on my Aquariums page.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

Reflections of a Science Traveler Five Years On

Glacier National ParkIn the last quarter of my most recent 2000 mile road trip we met a lovely couple at a Montana rest stop. Gene and Jacque were sitting in foldable chairs next to their large RV camper when we pulled in to stretch our legs. As we talked about life I realized that very day – September 12th – was the 5-year anniversary of my science traveling life.

Five years ago I resigned from my well-paid environmental consulting position in Washington, D.C. My new life as a science traveler, writer, and Abraham Lincoln historian has been jam-packed with excitement, interesting locations, and mind-stimulating enrichment. I said then, and reiterate now, that it was the best decision I ever made.

Back when I was contemplating making the jump, I couldn’t help but worry about where and how much I might travel, whether anyone would read what I was writing, and how I would make ends meet financially. After all, I was giving up a good salary, adventuring into new intellectual territory, and traveling to places I never expected to travel. In some ways it was a big risk. And yet, as I wrote in my first anniversary reflections“the stars aligned, angels’ voices rang down from the heavens,” so the risk wasn’t all that risky. I remind myself of this as my bank account and royalty check balances dwindle. 

There are times I think I’m not taking big enough, or fast enough, advantage of this post-salary time of my life. I could travel more, but that would mean less writing (I still haven’t mastered the art of writing while traveling). I could write more, but that would mean more obligation and less fun as I take on freelance jobs more for the money than the topic interest. I could do more with the Lincoln Group, but that greater responsibility comes with lessened flexibility. Overall, I think I’ve found a good balance.

So what have I been doing these five years? As the name of this website suggests, I’ve been science traveling. What does science traveling mean, you ask? Simple. I try to find the science in everywhere I travel, with science defined in the broadest sense. I don’t spend time in laboratories pouring chemicals (although I have been known to do that). And I don’t spend a week sitting on the same beach contemplating the same sand particles and clouds (some call this relaxing, to me it is stressful not to be moving). Instead, and with a career background ranging from marine biology to aquatic toxicology to environmental science to regulatory science I’m bound to find myself exploring the environmental aspects of my target location. For example, I was just along the Oregon coast where I noticed the similarities – and differences – between the rocky stacks there and the 12 Apostles off the southern coast of Australia. While in Crater Lake I marveled at the geology of the inside of a volcano. While in Pisa my mind wandered to the physics of Galileo dropping unequal weights off the Leaning Tower (not to mention the physics of what keeps the tower leaning and not toppling). Usually I try to read up on locations before visiting them, but I also do research on the locations once I return. I include these scientific aspects in my travel writing.

But my definition of science is broader than that. As a Lincoln historian I include getting to understand the local cultures (e.g., Serbian vs Croatian, Aborigine vs Maori vs Native American). As a science communicator – yet another interest in my diverse repertoire – I look for ways to best communicate the science to the public. Glacier National Park, for example, will soon have to be labeled “Historical Glacier National Park” as most of its glaciers have disappeared or shrunken to minimal levels. In contrast, the Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina is one of only a few glaciers that is actually growing. Throw in a little Darwin and Patagonia becomes a much more interesting place than simply hundreds of kilometers of gravel roads. Mark Twain once said that “travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” I aim to prove that is true.

My travels have taken me to over 50 countries, so far. This past 12 months alone I have been to nine or ten countries and several areas of the United States. There was Australia, New Zealand, Denmark, Poland, Lithuania, Estonia, Russia, Finland, the Aland Islands, and Sweden on the international front, with Hong Kong, Philippines, Brunei, and Singapore coming up soon. Domestically, I’ve been to New England several times in the last year, including Maine, plus Sanibel Island in Florida and my most recent road trip through Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and Montana. With three corners of the country covered I’m looking to make a road trip in the southwest U.S. soon.

This has been a busy year for my Abraham Lincoln side as well. In May, I finished up my term as Vice President of Programs of the Lincoln Group of DC, responsible for booking speakers for our monthly dinner meetings. I considered taking on ultimate leadership responsibility but opted to make a lateral move instead because of my travel and writing schedule. I’ve driven three increasingly intensive road trips as research for my book in progress. First a long weekend in Newport News for a “Battle of Hampton Roads” conference. Then a week-long drive through Lincoln’s early life in Tennessee/Kentucky/Indiana, with a stop in Michigan to see the rocking chair Lincoln was sitting in when assassinated. Finally, a 9-day Chasing Lincoln zigzag around Illinois to visit the seven Lincoln-Douglas debate sites, the I&M Canal, Rock Island, and two dozen or more Lincoln statues. I even got to see Lincoln and Douglas debate in person thanks to George Buss and Tim Connors. In the coming months I’ll make a few short day trips related to Lincoln, plus a few days in Chicago to check out more Lincoln sites (plus the famed Art Institute of Chicago).

The year wasn’t always great; there were some downer times too. My trips to New England were in part because my father has repeatedly made hospital and rehab stays as his body slowly gets weaker in his 92nd year. Then my Lincoln mentor and friend John Elliff passed away suddenly and unexpectedly. Other drags on life also creaked into existence during the year, but overall, it was a very good year.

My writing has been both a highlight and a lowlight this year. My first book on Tesla is into its 8th printing and several foreign translations. Edison is essentially sold out and has been translated as well. My Lincoln book released last summer is into a 2nd edition and is likely to get a 3rd plus translations. I’m also working on three books, two on Lincoln and one a travel memoir. The lowlights? I’ve spread myself a bit thin so none of the books is progressing as fast as I intended. I also planned to submit more freelance article work this year but haven’t put much effort into following through on it. I specifically dropped my reading goal from 100 books to 75 this year, intending to spend the freed time writing. I’m now 3 books behind even the lower goal and haven’t shifted the time into writing as much as I planned. Some of this is because of traveling, and with a heavy travel schedule continuing through at least next summer, I’m not sure whether I’ll improve my reading or writing pace much in the near future. Still, I am writing. I just need to write more and faster.

As I reflect on five years of post-salary life it strikes me that I get two kinds of reactions. One is envy, as people who want to quit/retire/travel/write think the grass is greener on my side of the fence. The other is inspiration, as they see promise of greater fulfillment even while they are working. It simply takes making the time to do what you want. After five years I can still say I have no regrets about my decision.

No regrets whatsoever.

See my previous “Reflections” for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017. This will be the last of these annual “Reflections” pieces unless something marvelous happens to warrant a special one. Of course, if one of my books becomes a million seller I won’t need to write these updates as you’ll be seeing me all over television and the internet. 🙂

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

Palouse Falls, Washington State

Palouse Falls is in a remote area of eastern Washington state. Getting there requires several hours of driving on empty back roads, especially the way I arrived via the Columbia River Gorge (Ritzville, WA is about an hour away if you come from the east).

Here’s a few quick photos. More later.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!

Nikola Tesla and the Invention of Bladeless Turbines

Tesla Pot Belly cropWhen he was not taking on Einstein, Nikola Tesla was thinking about some of the fundamental “truths” of science. In one case he disagreed with the idea that turbines needed to have blades like a propeller to catch the air or water as they moved in a particular direction. Tesla had experimented with what would come to be called the bladeless turbine as far back as his youth when he played with waterwheels of his own invention. His updated version of a bladeless turbine could be used, Tesla mused, to power “automobiles, locomotives and steamships,” not to mention airplanes and ocean liners, all new creations of the modern world of the early twentieth century.

Tesla Bladeless TurbineTesla had begun working on bladeless turbines when he was consulting with the Westinghouse Company in Pittsburgh, but this project, like so many others, was put on hold while he toiled on his alternating current designs of high potential and high frequency. But in 1906 he gave himself a fiftieth birthday present by demonstrating his bladeless turbine in public. The basic design of the turbine relies on the principle of boundary layer flow, that is, where the movement of the liquid or gas passes over a series of smooth disks. Some of the liquid or gas adheres to the disks, which creates a vortex that spirals toward the center and spins the turbine. Tesla described it in an interview with the New York Herald in 1911:

“Now, suppose we make this metal plate that I have spoken of circular in shape and mount it at its centre on a shaft so that it can be revolved. Apply power to rotate the shaft and what happens? Why, whatever fluid the disk happens to be revolving in is agitated and dragged along in the direction of rotation, because the fluid tends to adhere to the disk and the viscosity causes the motion given to the adhering particles of the fluid to be transmitted to the whole mass.”

This resulted in very large power output for a very small size and weight. Because no projecting blades were needed, the turbine could withstand much greater pressures.

But that wasn’t the only unusual device he mentioned. More on that in the book.

[Adapted from Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity, now into its 8th printing and translated into multiple languages.]

David J. Kent is the author Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World, plus two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate. His latest book is Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. 

Check out my Goodreads author page. While you’re at it, “Like” my Facebook author page for more updates!